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Sunday 7 September 2008

the Langkawi island in the rain


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On the west coast, not far from the Thai border, the favourite holiday spot for Malaysians and Singaporeans is called Langkawi. An island described as a heaven.
Malaysia possesses the special feature to have two monsoon periods. When this one stops on the west coast, it moves towards the east side. I'm sorry not to give the lie to weather forecasts which are similar for decades not to say centuries and foresee the rain in this part of the world in September! I won't see the sun throughout my short sojourn on the island. I can't unfortunately make do with diving since the underwater visibility is disastrous. This assessment will be the main reason of my early departure; I will try my luck on the islands of the east coast.
The next day of my arrival, I rent a scooter and set out on a trip around the island. Its corners are empty of tourists and its lovely beaches desperately dark. The sun doesn't definitely break through this thick layer of inhospitable clouds. I thread my way inland, its undulating relief is covered by a lush vegetation. A cable-car propels me at the top of one of these peaks to enjoy the view. A little bit further, a waterfall makes its way down the hill. This scooter ride invigorates me. Despite the dull colours of the landscapes and the water, I like this feeling of freedom in such an island and wandering about the beaches as a castaway. So, even during the monsoon, it's worth the trip.

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Saturday 23 August 2008

3 pearls in the Indian ocean

3 jewels in a turquoise setting, a well-deserved term to describe Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno et Gili Air. But we almost never set foot on this shangri-la. Although there is an express shuttle between Bali and the biggest of the 3 islands – Gili Trawangan –, we opted for the cheap solution taking the ferry. And to complicate things, we all handle by ourselves: ferry from Padang Bay, chaotic arrival in the Mafia-like harbour of Lembar where arranging a road transport to the Bengsal pier – starting point towards the Gili islands – will go with a great dose of irritation. The deserved arrival in Bengsal nearly sounds the end of the expedition; only 45 minutes left by boat and we finally land in Trawangan. But trouble is not finished yet. To end this unpleasant day, we spend one hour looking for an accommodation to finally find a room 3 times more expensive than in Bali for a lower quality. Can't wait for tomorrow to forget all of that!
The night erases the yesterday inconvenience, we realize the magic of this island. A greenery disc wholly encircled by a blond-sand ring. And an ever-more-incredible wealth hides a few meters away from the shore: an unforgettable coral reef.

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We spend the main part of the day underwater. Only equipped with a mask and a snorkel, we let ourselves drift by the current. And each dive displays its share of miraculous visual catches. Although we change island or country, the colourful inhabitants of the Indian Ocean carry on their captivating submarine waltz. But today, an heroine outshines the other reef dwellers. The green turtle robs the limelight from the unicorn- and butterfly-fish. It bestows a constant show. We follow each turtle which flies in the expanse of water. A slow and mind-blowing dance. Swimming beyond the time for some terrestrial mammals who appreciate the joys of another element. Our companion flies away into the blurred blue of the ocean depths. Our memory extends this smooth and slow flight.
Gili is one of the numerous Indonesian jewels, because Indonesia is packed with islands watered by turquoise water and stuffed with fantastic creatures. So many paradises for neophyte or advanced divers. As for me, I fill in my schedule for some future underwater odysseys.

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Monday 4 August 2008

Southernmost tip of Africa

A short stop at Agulhas cape, the southernmost point of Africa. Not a lot of things to do except taking pictures, scratching the sand to collect shells or visiting the former lighthouse which has pride of place over the rocky peninsula.

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We leave again towards Gansbaai where we've taken an appointment with the great white sharks. En route, we cross a couple of whales which associate with the cold waters of this place. Calm and serene contemplation before the great dive among the sharks which is planned for tomorrow....

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